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| Gucci |
HOW WAS IT?
NOT THAT I HAVE FIRST-HANDEDLY EXPERIENCED FASHION WEEK MYSELF…. THANK YOU VOGUERUNWAY.COM
But
every season of menswear, I always feel compelled to say something about the
clothes; since I’m lazy, most attempts I’m won over by my procrastinating ego.
Now that the fashion week for menswear’s fall has long closed its’ curtains and
being the Z-list blogger that I am, let me share my insight of the just
concluded Fall 2016 Menswear. There’s not a lot; consider me a rookie at this. With
that being said, I am trying to avoid overwriting adjectives and hoping to not
redundantly bombard you with "I love this!"-s. As I’ve only been in the menswear bandwagon
for quite a while I can’t say that this means whatever is said is of legitimate
standards, but I’ll base it off from what I feel is the basis of my keen
observation and strong feeling of lustful desires towards these luxury of
garments.
This
season felt like an unexciting one for menswear for me. Not as innovative as
the previous ones, I'd say. The silhouettes were cliché, like previous seasons:
non-conforming lengths and slouchy silhouettes (for men's). But for 2016 Fall,
one revolving theme was generally pushed by various houses. From the scarcity
of it last season to the abundance of different pieces this Fall- that is: Genderless
Fashion. Men in dresses, men in skirts, certainly the banner for genderless
bravery is up-high and blatantly waving.
There
was a lot to look at, hours and days of scrolling through Vogue Runway for the
latest about fashion week (Couture came by and LFW is coming), so I took the
time to curate the standouts for me this season. We can agree to disagree with
this list, but I feel like these brands sat close with my aesthetic/ taste so
that, you can’t argue with.
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| MAN (Grace Wales Bonner, Rory Parnell-Mooney, Charles Jeffrey) |
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| J.W Anderson |
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| Vivienne Westwood |
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| Juun J. |
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| Dries Van Noten |
Gucci
was a standout this season, with the whole 70's-vibe collection: embellished
jackets, color-blocked ensemble there's more for one than one can think of. Ever
since Alessandro Michele took over Gucci, there has been a change of wind for
me. From consciously ignoring their collection on fashion-driven websites to
getting awed at every piece they put out (e.g Lady Gaga super bowl outfit). Onto
MAN, dubbed as a talent incubator by Vogue with a generally diverse collective
of designers that offer something more than sheer fashion. They are talent.
Where the likes of Jonathan Anderson hailed, I personally think there is a lot
more to expect from these designers. From Grace Wales Bonner's African infused
collection to Rory Parnell-Mooney's collection that is reminiscent of his
youth, and ending the trifecta with a drag-inspired-drag-driven collection by
Charles Jeffrey. Truly, these three represented three different aesthetic but
undermines one thing: being bold. With J.W Anderson: there was a soft to
neutral palette and a closely similar silhouette from his previous menswar
collection. The difference with this is the touch on sleepwear: silver and
black pajamas and pretty much the whole snail print on some of the pieces that
enveloped his theme about fashion and its’ speed. Yes, sprinkle some allegory
in there Anderson.
In
theory, I guess Vivienne Westwood’s Fall 2015 Menswear 1st look
foreshadowed us for this extravagance (i.e tartan jacket and trousers finished
with a pair of suede blue high heels). This house is pushing for genderless
fashion. Men in all forms of dresses; there is one of every type of dress in a
girl’s closet. That is how you blend gender in fashion. Make it scream! As for
Juun J, as shameful as it sounds, the only time I’ve heard about this brand is
by a friend who mentioned it to me. Regretfully shameful. This season, they
have put up a great way to show how to dress smart without looking boring. The
layers, slouchy silhouettes, and oh! Pinstripes, I can go on and on and on. The
most cliché way a brand can go for menswear is always the blazer and trousers
combo; in a way tiresome to the eye for its redundancy but I think Juun J has
done it in a way that suits the brand’s aesthetic and avoid the businessmen’s “uniform”.
Finally, Dries Van Noten. I was hooked
and have been looking forward to every men’s show since their Spring 2015; with
their play on harness and as evident with this season’s collection, I was
obsessed and so was the world. I think DVN is one of the few brands that would
really get you anticipating on what they do with their menswear collection.
They never disappoint. This collection, well I’d want to say the comeback of their
harness matched with smart layering (almost to the extent of referring it to hip-hop
layering: baggy shorts and pants underneath or it’s just me), created a whole
different mood for me. It is almost a dark-whimsical affair, especially since
the show was held on a theater stage (thank you Youtube!).
In
general, this season was an average spectacle for innovation but great in visual
relevancy: slouchy silhouettes, multiple layering (still). One point I noticed
is that the minimalism trend is slowly taking a few step backs paving the way
for ostentatious details (e.g Gucci jackets, JW Anderson snail prints, and more
varying prints). I also believe that monogram has something to do with this.
With houses, getting their classic monogram handbags back on the shelves (i.e
Louis Vuitton and Gucci) it’s safe to say, it’s also gonna make its way to
clothes. To wrap everything up, in a broke-consumer’s perspective, I think
these houses making a stand on societal issues through fashion or through the clothes they make is a great way to normalize what
is preferably out of the box for some. In the years to come, expect more guys
in dresses and skirts, I tell you it will be the new norm.
Photos from: VogueRunway.com
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